Elise arrived on Thursday evening, a little late after a slow takeoff in Chicago. We got home and had a quick dinner with Mom and Dad, and watched a movie. The next morning we got the car packed quickly, and had some extra time to hang out before leaving at 1. Grabbed some wine from TJ’s, and got to Bellingham around 3. The directions I got from Google sucked, so we had no idea where to go. Finally we pulled over and asked at a marine supply store, and got directions to the ferry terminal. The directions were right on, so we made it with plenty of time, and then had a couple hours of waiting before finally loading.
The Columbia is huge – holds almost 1000 passengers, has a dining room, snack bar, solarium, theatre, two large viewing decks. We had a four-berth cabin, which has two bunk beds plus a toilet, sink, and shower. It was more space than we needed, really, but it was nice to be able to spread out.
We left Bellingham at 6, and headed west before turning north to hit the inside passage, east of Vancouver Island. The ship is great – they show movies in the theatre, they have a naturalist who gives presentations about animals or towns or geographic features. The sunset the first night was amazing. We were traveling west at the time, so the sun set in an amazing explosion of red and orange and reflected across the many small islands east of Vancouver Island. The food in the dining room is okay – the first night I had the halibut and Elise had a game hen. Nothing amazing, but it was a nice environment with views out the stern of the ship.
Saturday was more of the same. The islands don’t change much between Puget Sound and Ketchikan, I noticed. Small, forest covered, not too tall. The inside passage is nice because we rarely come across rough waters, and everything there is to see is just off the sides of the ship. We don’t see a lot of wildlife – there were a couple porpoises and a couple whales, but not much else. We learn about bears from the naturalist. Apparently, if the bear charges me, I need to lay in the fetal position and cover my neck. The bear might injure me, and it will hurt, but then he’ll probably go away. Great.
When we woke up the next day we were in Ketchikan. The terrain is the same, but the weather isn’t. We had mostly sunshine until now, but here the weather is drizzly and rainy. After the town of Wrangell, we start to see some bald eagles when we go through the Wrangell Narrows. Very tight, shallow little waterway, with changing currents. We go slowly through it. At dusk we reach Petersburg. The terrain is still largely the same, and the weather still sucks.
We awake the next morning in Juneau. Finally, the geography is changing. The mountains are taller and more craggy; there are glaciers cascading down the hills toward the water. We got to Skagway safely, and walked around the town a little bit. It’s Disneyland for retirees. False-front buildings, wooden sidewalks, people walking around in circa-1898 garb. Amusing. We bought some fudge and took some pictures, then hit the road on the Klondike Highway. A gorgeous road, it weaves its way alongside the old White Pass Yukon Route railroad from the old gold rush days. We pass lakes small and large, and lots of smaller peaks. When we get out to take pictures, we encounter the state bird: the mosquito. They’re everywhere. Suddenly, getting in and out of the car is a challenge – it must be done quickly and decisively to avoid allowing mosquitoes in the car. We pass into British Columbia and then into the Yukon Territory.
After about 100 miles we reach the Alaska-Canada Highway (aka the “Alcan”), and head into Whitehorse, the capital of Yukon. There’s a miner’s convention in town this day, so most of the hotel rooms are booked. After help from the visitor’s center, we finally track down one of the few remaining rooms, which turns out to be a “suite” in a family motel. We didn’t need the kitchenette and the living room, but it was nice to have the extra space. Dinner was at a barbecue joint. Elise had caribou stew, and I had prawns.
The next morning we took the Alcan back into Alaska. The drive is again magnificent, with more lakes and peaks – this time larger snow-capped ones. We stopped in Tok for the night at a surprisingly nice hotel and a decent meal at “Fast Eddie’s.” The next morning we started off for Anchorage. We stopped for lunch in Glenallen, at a restaurant called the Brown Bear Rhodehouse. A classic dive, it had an “Insured by Smith & Wesson” sign on the front door, a musty bar and a dimly lit atmosphere. Fox News was on the TV in the corner. The food was okay, and the biggest attraction was the wall of brown bear photographs.
The last 100 miles of the drive to Anchorage was amazing. Winding through the Chugach mountains, we saw some very tall (16,000+ ft) peaks and some long glaciers. We drove right past the Matanuska Glacier – 26 miles long and several miles wide. What a sight. Slowly we started seeing more signs of civilization – a truck stop here, a gas station there, and finally a McDonalds in the city of Palmer. Then it was just 30 more miles to Anchorage.
The journey finally over, we went to a very nice restaurant called Simon and Seafort’s, where we ordered king crab legs and delicious appetizers. We spent the next day exploring downtown Anchorage, and Elise left on Thursday night for a red-eye back to Chicago. It was a great trip.
For photos, go here. I'll be back with more later about life in Anchorage so far.